Modifications & Tips Page
There are no wall switches for any of the inside overhead lights. You have to come
all the way up
inside the trailer and fumble for a light switch on a ceiling fixture.
To fix this I replaced the single porch light wall switch with a dual wall
switch. I used a lighted type switch for the porch light. I
wired the new switch to the fixture under the clock cabinet. Now
an inside light can be turned on while I'm stepping into the trailer or even while standing on the ground outside.
Note: I wired so that the new wall
switch operates 1 bulb in the 2 bulb fixture and the existing switch on
the fixture operates the other bulb. The lighted porch light switch is
plenty of light to let you know that the porch light is left on when
you are inside.
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If not careful with the door, it can swing out and hit the lens of the
porch light. Mine got popped loose once, I popped it back on but
lost the lens on the road.
I could not find a replacement lens so I ended up replacing the
entire fixture with a rectangular type commonalty found in RV
stores. I also wired a second porch light. Both have switches on
the fixtures as well.
I still have not fixed the door banging the lens problem.
light and fan switch
Light in stall is hard to reach especially for small children.
The fan switch quit working as well
I installed a dual wall switch on the door pillar outside the bathroom. I
used a lighted switch for the bathroom light and put the fan on the
other switch. I just removed the broken switch on the fan.
is one of the harder modifications to do. It was kinda hard to get the
wires from the fan and light down to the switch area. I removed the
bathroom skylight molding to get access. I also had to pry back the
sidewall panel in the cabinet above the sink. it helped a lot to have
the existing plumbing access panel right where it is.
I had to drill a horizontal hole from the bathroom wall then a
vertical hole up to meet the 1st hole from the cabinet side. No holes
or wires are visible after everything is put back together.
Before the fan switch broke I was thinking about just adding a small
waterproof light fixture on the bathroom wall. would have been a lot
Water Heater Switch
The electric water heater switch is kind of inconvenient located
in the outside water heater access, even when you know where it is, it
is hard to see and reach. And I always forget if I left the
switch is on or off.
Here is location of the electric water heater element switch. In
Note: Down in ON.
I installed switch in the water tank storage compartment.
I just used a single 120V switch with built in pilot light
along with a 30" piece of 12-2 Romex and an "old work" electrical
box. Now I can easily turn on/off the electric element from
inside the trailer. I have the switch box just sitting in the
bottom of the water tank compartment. I can view the pilot light
looking through the 'thumb hole' on the compartment door\bench seat.
Update- Switch modification -
I have now moved the 120 V water heater switch to the wall where all
the other controls are located.
Note: With this
setup you have to leave the existing switch in the outside access
compartment in the ON position
time. Then use only the inside switch to turn the element on and off.
If the switch in the outside access is off then the electric
come regardless of the setting of the new inside switch. In other
words the 2 switches are in series.
Change - Analog to Digital
The analog thermostat is kind of annoying. You can't set it at
the same place one night to the next. The same slider control is used
to set temp and turn off the heater so you loose the setting you had.
One time I did not turn the switch all the way to the off position and
burned up a whole tank of propane just setting in my yard one winter.
I removed the original and put in a digital programmable unit.
Model: Hunter 42999B (Walmart) Battery operated with 2AA cells.
Easy to connect. The original has 2 wires. Connect one wire to W and
the other to Rh. (Leave the jumper on from Rh to Rc)
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Winterize Plumbing Addition
Added 2 valves and hose so that RV antifreeze can easily be
added to the system using the 12V water pump.
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Remove Cabinet Divider
Howard Miller/radio DVD cabinet above the refrigerator:
curious about the cabinet behind the clock. Seemed like a large
amount of space behind there with no access. I removed the inside side
panel from the cabinet by removing the 4 wood screws. This gives
access to entire
cabinet all the way to the end behind the radio DVD.
You can move the panel
over to the left side of the HM clock to give more room but still
protect the radio/wires etc. Or remove or lay down the panel to
have all the space to the end.
Be careful of the wires behind the
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DVD/ radio on left and clock at the center stuck to a mirror panel by
'Velcro'. The panel divider is just to the right side of the
Also shown are the indoors speakers.
Audio / Video in/out cables hanging down.
Under cabinet light fixture.
The side panel is shown here in its original location.
One outdoor speaker is behind the black cover.
This shows the side panel laying down. The panel could be set back up
but pushed down by the side of the DVD/radio unit, however the cabinet
floor does not cover the whole area. The other outdoor speaker is
Power consumption 120VAC - ' Shore' power
Power usage in a travel trailer is
something that you will need to
be consciously aware of. It is easy to use too much power at
one time and throw a breaker either in the trailer and/or in the
main panel of the structure you are connected to.
Appliance Ratings: (As found in my '07 X139. Your appliances may have slightly different ratings).
Water heater 12A (1440 Watts)
Microwave 11.67A (1400 Watts)
Air Conditioner 10.5Amp total. (1260 Watts), 8 Amp (960 Watts)
compressor + 2.5A (300 Watts) fan motor. Startup Amps are
momentarily much higher
Refrigerator 1.5A (180 Watts)
Power Converter (WFCO 45Amp model) - 780 Watts Max When charging battery I measured ~6 Amps (720 Watts).
Connection to the outside outlet on your home:
If you plug into a standard outdoor outlet on your house you can easily
overload that circuit. Many older houses have the outdoor outlets
shared with the bathrooms garage etc. If you are
just maintaining the RV battery and running a few lights from time to
time then you should be OK. If you have people living in the RV,running
the AC and microwave and such then you really need a dedicated
circuit, preferably a 30A 120V circuit. Having everything on all
at once could overload even the
maximum 30A circuit.
Your RV 'Shore power' cord has 10 gauge
using an extension cord with the 15 amp standard plug
adapter, then use a cord
with at least 14 ga and preferably 12 ga diameter wires and as short as possible.
NOTE: For those of you
who want to do your own wiring: Do not confuse a 30A 240V circuit
such as you have on a clothes dryer outlet. Attempting to wire
your RV outlet into 240VAC will destroy the power system. The properly
outlet will have ONE hot wire black (or red), One neutral wire
(White) and bare copper or green for the ground.
'Shore Power' Capacity Rating:
following as a guide to estimate your capacity: Find the amp rating of
circuit you are connected to from the chart below. Then add up the
Watts or Amps of everything that could be in use simultaneously on that
circuit both in the RV and in the house if applicable.
Note: For the appliances you can use either the
Amps ratings or Watts ratings. You must use the same units for
all. If you are given
only Amps then multiply the given Amps by 120 to get Watts. If you need
to calculate Wattage when given Amps then divide the given Watts by 120.
Connection Type -vs- Wattage Available
Example Watt Method:
|Maximum Wattage Available
|Minimum Wire Gauge
|30 Amp @ 120V
|20 Amp @ 120V
|15 Amp @ 120V
Running the Microwave and AC at the same
time would use 2660 Watts (1400+1260). This would be OK if you are
connected to a 30A service but would overload a 20 or 15A service.
Example Amp Method:
The microwave = 11.67A and the AC = 10.5A
11.67A + 10.5A = 21.67A (Must use a 30A connection in order to run both of these at the same time).
How to find appliance ratings:
All electrical devices should have a wattage or amp rating printed on the device or on a label.
Be sure to use the AC input rating and not
the output ratings if stated.
For example my laptop adapter says: Input: 120VAC 1.5A Another line says: Output:: 19.5VDC 3.34A
Ignore the 50/60 Hz rating.
I would need use the 1.5A input rating. (The wattage would be 1.5 *120 = 180 W)